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UNDERGROUND MONEY Michael Grosberg & Mic Looby With the police in Bontoc to see if there are Involve tourists in their affairs still, before Last thing quarrelling tribes want to do is Not even the Philippine government bothers intervening in these squabbles, some of which go back centuries. Tribal wars occasionally break out between villages in Kalinga and Mountain Off the beaten track in provinces like Aurora and Isabela, and rarely, if ever, affects In the lowlands, the principal dialects areįilipino and Ilocano, which is the predominant language not only in Ilocos but alsoĬommon dialects include Pangasinan, common in the Lingayen Gulf area, and Sambal, The country’s national language, Filipino. The Cordillera, people are more likely to The language jumble is most confusing in Kalinga, where justĪbout every village has its own dialect. North Luzon, with dozens of dialects heard Your own kayak, windsurfer or surf board, undiscovered breaks, beaches and rapids await. There are endless caves in Cagayan province, endless whitewater rapids on Kalinga’s Chico River and endless surf breaks around the island. Many of these trails lead to remote villages where tribespeople live The region is an adventure-lover’s paradise, with mountainous networks of ancient walking Surfing in San Fernando (La Union) (p142) or at the breaks around Baler, including famously Getting up close and personal with the mummies of Kabayan (p161) Taking in the ubiquitous acoustic guitar musicĮarly-evening pilgrimage over Pinacanauan History buffs can follow MacArthur’s men on the wide beaches around Lingayen.Ĭhilling out for days – or weeks – in Sagadaīraving the wild rapids on the Chico River Their fill in Vigan, where old Spanish colonial mansions line the streets of the old town, and North Luzon offers plenty to more sedentary types as well. Off Luzon’s northern tip, the grassy hills of the Batanes islands possess their own austere beauty. Have collaborated on one of the world’s truly sublime displays of beauty and ingenuity. In the rice terraces of Banaue and elsewhere, humans and nature Isolated sandy beaches ringĪlmost the entire coastline. Green forests blanketing vast areas of gloriously crooked earth.
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The central mountain range known as the Cordillera is the region’s trophy piece, with lush Plains and endless coastline, whose population is as diverse and unique as the landscape. Generalisations fall short when describing this vast region of misty mountains, sprawling